Walking in the Shadows

Random musings from Warwickshire on life in general... Things that make me laugh, make me cry, things that wind me up beyond all endurance - and everything in between.

Monte

This is somewhere that is a real haven of peace, away from the hustle and bustle of Funchal. It's also cooler, and whilst in Funchal, it can be brilliant sunshine, you can end up looking like a drowned rat in Monte!

I will admit, trying to take photos whilst the cable car is running is something of an art, but it's one that I seem to have been able to master (if I do say so myself!)



One of my favourite places in Monte, is the little restaurant / bar that is attached to the cable car building. Why? Because of the fabulous views over the port of Funchal, as well as Funchal itself.


Aside from the views, Monte is known for a number of things - Monte Palace Tropical Gardens (I'll do a separate post on this!), the Toboggan and the Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Monte - also known as Mother Church of Our Lady of Monte.

The toboggan is one of those things that you have to experience (yes - I have done so) and I remember pelting down the road on a wickerwork toboggan and going sideways at several points along the route!


But the best thing (or most scary thing - depending on your outlook) is that the route is actually along public highways. I will admit to one thing - I would be loathe to park my car on the route, as at one point, I really thought we were going to end up embedded in the side of a brand new VW Polo!


Not far from the toboggans, is the church. But, there is a catch (isn't there always?) You have to climb 74  steps to get to the church.



However, this is well worth the climb, as the interior is something very special. OK - it's not as ornate as the Cathedral, but this is just as special in its own way...





The ceiling of this Church is something that really stunned me. The last time I was there, I freely admit to missing it - not this time!



But there is more to Monte than just the gardens, toboggans and the church.  Just a short walk from the toboggans, is the village square, complete with its own little cafe and shop.  Again, it's just so pleasant to sit there, and just watch the world go by...



But not only is there the cafe & shop, there is a lovely shrine to the Virgin Mary.  It never fails to amaze me, and the flower displays are always immaculate.







Ah well guess I should call this quits - I've been staring at a computer screen for too long today.

Back later if I get the chance.

Karen


Now some things you hold on to - and some you just let go
Seems like the ones that you can't have
Are the ones that you want most

Funchal & it's delights - Jardim Orquidea and the Botanical Gardens

The one thing that I really love is the flowers and gardens in Madeira. The best example for me is Jardim Orquida (see http://www.madeiraorchid.com/), which houses some of the most magnificent orchids that I have ever seen (or had the pleasure of photographing) I just wish I could have captured the scent of some of the orchids - it was truly knock out - especially the Cattalaya orchids.

The entrance to Jardim Orquida is nothing much to look at, on first glance. However, it's when you get inside that the magic really happens.


There were so many orchids (and I took so many photos) that it's hard to say what really caught my imagination the most. But the one thing that really stuck out for me, was the variety of orchids that were on display - including Vanda orchids that ranged in colour from a very pale blue/mauve to a rich blue (as in my photo below)


Some of the flowers were just weird (and I admit - I don't know very many of the names!)


Bu the one that did catch my eye, was a Dendrobium:



The one thing that did upset me, was the fact that some of the plants weren't labeled. When I asked why, I was told that it was for security reasons, as the plants tended to be the rarer varieties. This was because in the past, when they had been labeled, orchid collectors had stolen the plants.

The only thing I wanted to do was take photographs - and curse that I don't have the right cultivation conditions for these beautiful plants. But that doesn't stop me trying - OK - more to the point, doesn't stop Mum trying - she went and bought one of the plants that was on sale. A Dendrobium (don't think it was the one I liked though). She brought it back in her flight bag and it is now growing happily in the kitchen.

After we went to Jardim Orquidea, Mum and I walked to the Botanical Gardens. (See http://www.madeirabotanicalgarden.com/)  Ok - it's supposed to be 200 metres from where we were, but the trouble was there were no obvious signs and I guess that Mum and I walked more like 500 metres.  But as far as I was concerned, it was well worth it.  Why? Because we came in at the bottom end of the garden, near the Cycads.




Ok - I admit it - I have a real love of these facinating prehistoric plants, and everywhere that they grew, I tried to get photographs.  Don't ask me what species they were, because I honestly don't know.  But that wasn't the only attraction of the Botanical Garden for me. 

Whilst Mum was resting with a cold drink (she wasn't feeling too good) I made my escape and found all sorts of interesting things to photograph - including plants that I didn't even know flowered.  Why?  Because here in the UK, we treat them as foliage plants - things like the Swiss Cheese plant (Monstera Edulis)



The central spathe of this plant is edible, and is sold in the market as a fruit.  It's an aquired taste, I have to admit, but it was one that I did manage to aquire...



There was such a wide variety of plants that there is no way that I can show everything that I saw.  The one thing that I do remember (for a variety of reasons) was the carpet bedding display.




There are channels of water between parts of the displays, and the reason I remember this, is because they were covered with algae, and I had to warn Mum that they were not grass... 

However, someone also thought that they were grass.  I was photographing the Cactus display that over looks the carpet bedding when I heard a splash.  Yes, you guessed it, someone had tried to walk on the "grass" and fell into the water.  I'd be lying if I said I didn't laugh.

Aside from that, there were lots of things that I found facinating (apart from the cycads) - including a Ginger Lilly that was taller than me!



But the plants weren't the only thing that caught my imagnination.  The spectacular scenery was something that I just couldn't resist trying to get photographs of:



Aside from the plants (and spectacular scenery) the peacocks that strutted around the gardens seemed to show no fear of visitors.  I managed to get a couple of shots whilst I was taking a quick break (ok - I was seated reviewing some photos on my camera!)



However, the real fun came when I joined Mum at the coffee shop.  There were about three peacocks "mugging" people for crumbs (and larger bits if they could get them) and two of them were "scared" (I use the term very loosly) by one of the rangers who was near by.  The third peacock hid, and when the ranger's back was turned, made the most of the lack of competition!



But the others didn't stay away for long, and by the time Mum and I left, there were five peacocks - the other two had brought their mates with them!

Ah well - guess I should call this quits - I need to get some sleep as I'm back in the playpen tomorrow.

Karen

Now some things you hold on to - and some you just let go
Seems like the ones that you can't have
Are the ones that you want most

Funchal and it's delights - the Municipal Museum

Something that is not really well publicised, is the Municipal Museum. This houses a small aquarium, with native marine animals (including some ferocious looking Fang Tooth Moray Eels) as well as showing some rather interesting stuffed animals that show the natural history of the archipelago.

It's housed in a really attractive building, and some of the interior features really caught my imagination - including the screen across a window:



Up on the first floor, was a facinating display of stuffed birds, fish and some animals.



There was an additional bonus for me – there was an exhibition of… Spiders.Yes, spiders. Live ones. No pictures I’m afraid, but there were two that stuck in my memory. One because of the name - the Wedding Present spider.

No, I’m not joking. This is a genuine spider. Not really something that would normally be memorable (it looked rather insignificant if I’m honest), but the name made me smile.

The other spider that I can recall quite clearly, is the Desertas Tarantula. By the standards of most other tarantulas, it was quite delicate, but it was really pretty –as I said, I’m afraid I couldn’t get any photographs – wish I could have done, as they would have made great screensavers…

Ah well - I'm comming to the end of my lunchbreak, so I guess I should get ready to head back to my desk...

Back later.

Karen


Now some things you hold on to - and some you just let go
Seems like the ones that you can't have
Are the ones that you want most

Funchal and its' delights - The Farmer's Market

The one thing that does stick in my mind (for all the right reasons) is the Mercado dos Laverdores – the Farmer's market. This has such a buzz about it – even better on a Friday and Saturday, as the local people go to do their weekend fruit, vegetable and fish shopping.



There's such a buzz about this place, and the stallholders were only too happy to allow me to photgraph their stalls - not unreasonably they are very proud as the majority of the fruit and vegtables were grown near Funchal.



Don’t get me wrong – I’m not knocking this market – far from it. It was a real joy to go there and see all the different fruit and vegetables (makes me realise just what we’ve lost here in the UK) as well as the fresh fish. Not to mention all the other silly bits that you can get (like my Poncha for starters!)



Yet for me, it was the wide variety of fresh fish that was available.  Everything from sardines, through to octopuss, tuna and most surprisingly of all, fang tooth Moray Eel.



This was something special, as I'd never seen them for sale in the market.  I'd seen the Black Scabbard fish everytime I'd been there, as well as Tuna and other fish.  What the Fang Tooth tastes like, I have no idea.




Ah well, guess I should call this quits - I'm supposed to be working, not blogging! (Yes, I'm back in the playpen...)

Karen

Now some things you hold on to - and some you just let go
Seems like the ones that you can't have
Are the ones that you want most

Funchal and it's delights - Blandy's Wine Lodge & the Maderia Wine Festival

Also in Funchal, is the Madeira Wine Company. This is formed by three producers of wine – Blandys, Cossart Gordons, and Henriques. The company is housed in the Adegas de Sao Francisco, and is owned by the Blandy family.






There are numerous points of interest, but of course, the two things I was interested in, were the Vintage room, where you can pay in excess of €25 to try to seriously old Madeira wine.




The most amazing thing about the Vintage room, is the fact that they have all these really expensive bottles of wine on shelves with doors fronted by what I think is chicken wire!



The bottles are something rather special though.  Each one is hand stencilled with the name of the producer, the grape variety and the year that it was bottled. 




For a wine to be declared a vintage, in must be left in the barrel for about 20 years, then the master vinter sends four bottles to the Maderia Wine Institute, who decide if it is a vintage year.  The first two bottles are tested, the third is then placed in the cellar, so that a record is kept of the wine.  The fourth bottle I've been unable to find out what happens to - I personally think that it gets drunk!

However,  if like me, you’re not a wine buff, head for the Max Romer “Taste & Buy Bar”.





The first time I visited Madeira, I went to the Max Romer bar, and the thing that has stayed with me, was the sight of a group of tourists (I think they were Scandinavian) getting steadily plastered the whole time Mum and I were in there. They were so drunk, they were nearly falling off the seats. Made for good entertainment, I have to admit.



Because of the time of year that I was in Madeira, it was the Madeira Wine Festival. This starts on a Friday night, and goes through to the Sunday night.







There was a whole raft of different displays, not to mention people getting seriously drunk on the various offerings from small stalls.




I made one mistake though – I tried the Poncha that was on sale. It was like drinking paint stripper – it was almost neat firewater. Normally, Poncha is a “refined” mixture of honey, lemon juice and firewater (ok – sugar cane rum) but this was revolting. Guess it served me right for trying something that was on sale during the wine festival!

Ah well, guess I should log off and bog off - we've got vistors arriving and I've been told I can't be anti-social.  Real shame really...

Back tomorrow.

Karen

Now some things you hold on to - and some you just let go
 
Seems like the ones that you can't have
Are the ones that you want most

Funchal and its delights - The Sacred Art Museum, Sugar Museum and the Se

Instead of trying to list all the things that I did on holiday as a day by day account, I’ve decided to group things into areas – such as trips to Monte (Monte Palace Tropical Gardens is a post on it’s own!) and visits to different museums.

My one regret is that some of the museums won’t let you take photographs – a good example is the Museu de Arte Sacra  - the Sacred Art Museum - (please see http://www.museuartesacrafunchal.org/eng/homepage.html). I can understand why, because the exhibits - especially the metal work and the Bishop’s robes are stunning.

But for me, it’s the paintings by the Flemish and Portuguese artists that I would have loved to have been able to take photographs of. Admittedly, there are postcards available, but they don’t show all the pieces.

However, where there is a will… I managed to get a couple of shots of the one picture that I really liked - Ascension of Christ, by Fernão Gomes. This was due to the fact that the curators were not as vigilant as normal and Mum was keeping watch for me!



Admittedly, my picture isn't as good as this one:

Ok - this came from the website - my dratted pictures aren't as clear as this one - devine retribution I guess....)

Another of the little museums is the Núcleo Museológico Cidade do Açúcar – also known as the Sugar Museum. Ok – it’s not massive, but at least you can take photos – without having to dodge curators! It aims to tell the story of the city of Funchal in the 16th and 17th centuries, and has several interesting artefacts – including the sugar cones – a product that allowed Madeira to get some of the art that is located in Museu de Arte Sacra and also the cathedral.

This is a sugar cone - and it was the method used to transport the sugar - why the traders chose this shape, I can only guess - my guess is that it was easier to ship without damaging the moulds that were made of terracotta.


This museum also had a well that was used by Christopher Columbus during his stay in Maderia.


The most amazing part about this well (apart from the fact it survived) is the fact that it still has water in it!

The Sé (or Cathedral) was truly magnificent. To the casual observer, it doesn’t look too special from the outside. But it’s when you get inside that the magic comes to life. The artwork on the walls and the main altar was something special.









Ah well, I guess I should call this quits – I’ve got washing to get sorted out before I go and get bits and pieces sorted out...

Karen

Now some things you hold on to - and some you just let go

Seems like the ones that you can't have
Are the ones that you want most